Operation

I’ve connected the print to my computer but there is no connection.
In order to connect Ditto to the computer, make sure you install the Coodia control host software. This will provide you with the necessary drivers in order to operate the printer. The Coordia control host is available for download via the Tinkerine Studio Forum.

I want to update the Marlin firmware on my Arduino.
All Arduino comes with Marlin preloaded on it, but if you ever need to update your Arduino, you will need to download Arudino 0023 and upload the new Marlin.pde. *IMPORTANT* Do not update or download the latest version Arduino, use the Arduino 0023 release or else you will not be able to compile Marlin.

Motors are locked, and cannot be moved.
Motors are automatically engaged when the printer is connected. Using Coordia, press the Motor Off button to disengage them. If you are using Pronterface, send M84 in the command line to disengage the motors.

Filament is not coming out when I manually purge the hotend.
A. Are you trying to extrude with an unheated hotend? The software prevents cold extrusion to prevent it from breaking the extruder. Make sure your hotend is heated up to the proper temperature (around 180 °C) before you purge your hotend.
B. Is the hob properly tensioned to the filament? If the hob is free spinning and not biting onto the filament, no filament will be pushed out. Remove the filament, loosen the extruder motor and re-align the motor and hob so that it can grip the filament properly.

I’m hearing a high pitched noise/clicking noise from my motors.
The potentiometer on your stepper drivers are turned on too high! Giving your motors too much power will overheat them cause them to operate noisier than needed. With a ceramic screwdriver, adjust the potentiometer (counter clockwise for lower, clockwise for higher voltage). Adjust it so that the motor does not emit any foreign noises while giving the motor enough current to move the axis or extruder without skipping.

 

Calibration

Loss of motion in one or more axis, causing prints to become displaced/misaligned.

1. Check tension on all GT2 belts, and re-tension any belts you feel that are too loose, causing the loss in motion.

2. Check and tighten all set screws inside of the pulleys. This includes the 8 pulleys on the smooth rod, and 2 pulleys attached to the NEMA motors.

3. Check to see if motors are getting enough power. Adjust the potentiometer on the stepper driver accordingly if motors are under voltage.

 

Interrupted movement of a motor, causing either an uneven flow of filament or temporary skip in the axis. Skipping can also be caused by an interrupted movement from other motion components found on the printer.

Determine the source of the skip.

A. Extruder Motor – Check to see if the filament is properly seated against the hobbed bolt. If the bolt is too far away, the hobbed bolt will not latch onto the filament properly and will slip. You may also need to remove the extruder motor to see if the hob is clean and not clogged with filament fragments.

B. Belt – Check to see if the belt is too tight and restricting fluid movement of the axis or catching on another gantry component and causing friction.

C. Pulley – Inspect the pulleys to see if they are all correctly positioned and aligned with the belt that is attached. Inspect all pulleys for visible damage that may cause improper rotation.

D. Sliders – Inspect all sliders along the axis and check to see if the Delrin are moving smoothly. Also make sure the linear bearings on the carriage are operating smoothly as well.

E. Axis Motor – If belts and pulleys are working smoothly, your axis motor that is skipping may not be receiving enough current from the respective driver. Using the ceramic screwdriver that is included within your electronics kit, turn the potentiometer on the stepper driver clockwise. Increase the voltage ever so slightly each time, as giving a motor too much current will overheat it.

F. Software Interruption – During the point of the skip, was your computer under high loads? With a USB connection, a temporary high load on the processor may cause the data transfer between the computer and the printer to be interrupted, causing a skip on the print.

G. Electric Interruption – During the point of the skip, was the printer connected to a power source that had a high power device turned on? A temporary flux to the power supply of the electronics devices on the printer may cause a skip on the print.

 

Hotend’s nozzle is digging/dragging down previous layers.

1. The build platform is too high. Readjust the Z-axis endstop trigger screw, bringing the platform down away from the hotend nozzle.

2. Check that your filament diameter within the slicing software is dialed in correctly. Incorrect filament diameter will cause the extruder to over/under extrude filament per layer.

 

Corners of the prints are not sticking to the bed and is curling upward.

Curling and warping of prints are usually caused by plastic cooling at different rates. There are some ways to prevent or minimize this issue.

1. Print with a raft – Enable the raft function within your slicing software. This lattice framework underneath your print will allow it to adhere better to the surface.

2. Print with a clean bed – Is it time to clean or swap out your print surface?
A dirty print surface or old piece of tape will cause the filament to not stick to the bed.

3. Z-height – Is your Z-axis properly calibrated? If the bed is too low, the extruded filament will not be able to make a good contact with the print surface. Bring your bed height up and make sure the first layer is deposited firmly onto the surface.

4. Heated Bed – Using a heated bed surface will allow your print surface to cool at a even pace, minimizing the amount of curl/warp on your prints.

5. Ambient Temperature – Are you printing outside in the cold? Or is your printer sitting beside a window with a cold draft coming in? A cold ambient temperature will increase cooling rate of the plastic, causing to curl or warp drastically. Move your printer somewhere a bit warmer.

 

Filament is not sticking to the bed properly.

1. Adhesion Material – Have you applied something on the print bed for the print to adhere to? Try blue painter’s tape, Kapton, or other unique solutions that you may come across.

2. Z-height – If your print bed is too far away from the nozzle, the filament will not adhere properly to the bed and curl off. Calibrate and bring the bed closer to the nozzle. You generally want the first layer of the print to be a bit ‘squished’ to make sure the print sticks firmly.

 

Inconsistent flow of filament coming out of the hotend – prints have signs of skipping and there are breaks and blobbing on the filament deposition.

1. Extruder Motor – Check to see if the filament is properly seated against the hobbed bolt. If the bolt is too far away, the hobbed bolt will not latch onto the filament properly and will slip. You may also need to remove the extruder motor to see if the hob is clean and not clogged with filament fragments.

2. Check that your filament diameter within the slicing software is dialed in correctly. Incorrect filament diameter will cause the extruder to over/under extrude filament per layer.